June 16
We pulled out of Palmer with the sun shining and arrived to the Whittier tunnel with the rain falling.
While we waited for the tunnel to open, we were entertained by a raven who had opened a bait box in the boat in front of us. He would grab a herring, fly away with it and then return for more. The owners of this boat will start out with a littles less bait than they had planned.
When we called about leaving our vehicle at Lazy Otter. Kelly the owner, told us about a memorial service for Marilyn Heddle. We were hoping to attend it before we paddled out. We were fortunate enough to make the tunnel and therefore attend the service. Pete Heddle was there and we got to do a short visit with him before the ceremony.
We had worked with Pete and Marilyn for many years when we were employed at NOLS.
We were glad that our timing had worked out for this visit.
When the ceremony was over, we packed up our boats and headed out of Passage Canal. The tide was out going so we got a gentle push as we headed to Squirrel Cove. The weather was typical Sound, overcast with some rain. There are 10 tent platforms located here, but we were the only ones here for the night. The last time we were here was with a NOLS STEP course. It felt good to be back in the Sound!
By the time we arrived the tide was out and the carry to camp was long.. No worries, we just had us to deal with…no students.
Destination Squirrel Cove …miles paddled 8
June 17
We had planned a short paddle today, only going to Surprise Cove. We were able to leave at high tide so it was easy to load the boats and head out. When we rounded the point into the cove we noticed that a NOLS course was packing their boats. It was their first day to travel so we knew that they would be there for awhile. We decided to head down to the end of the cove and check out the picturesque waterfall. Upon on our return the last minute packing was being completed. We had a short talk with the instructors and off they went. We had another campsite to ourselves! Today we had planned to walk the trail here to the end. We had camped here with students and never got more than halfway. We packed some food and I decided not to wear my rain pants. The day was cloudy, but not rainy. That was a mistake! By the time we had gone to the end of the trail. and back. I was completely soaked. A lot of the trail was overgrown and the bushes were water soaked Sure hope the next day will be a sunny one or I will be packing some very wet pants. We decided to depart early in the morning so headed to bed early. Sleeping with the sun up can be challenging, but eventually we were sound asleep.
Destination Surprise Cove…miles paddled 7
June 18
We awoke early and were on the water by 5:30. The seas couldn’t have been calmer.
Crossing Cockrane Bay. This stretch of water can build some big waves so no complaints about this weather pattern.
Heading across Blackstone.
We decided to head down Culross passage and camp on Applegate. The tides were with us once again and we remembered some of the campsites that we had camped at in years past with family, friends and students. This weather pattern is amazing and if it holds we may be able to get some good paddling in this trip. We reach our campsite early afternoon and set up camp.
This campsite has been used by the native population for many years. It is a superb site that looks down the bay at the glaciers.
It was a leisurely afternoon with Don going fishing and I making bread and pizza cooked over coals.
Don had a little fishing success, but glad we had planned to eat pizza as well!
It was quite the relaxing afternoon there were, however, a few bugs around to remind us that we were in the Sound even with the sun shining all day.
Destination Applegate….miles paddled 15.5
June 19
This campsite has the most amazing views, but this morning, the bugs were out in full force. We quickly ate breakfast, broke camp and paddled away hopefully leaving the bugs on the shore.
WOW!
Sometimes we have spent several weeks out on the Sound and never getting a day like today. If this pattern holds today we are going to get a good day of paddling.
We head around Applegate and head over towards Perry. We take a short break on Perry before heading around the outside. We appreciate the beauty of the day.
An eagle shows Don his catch of the day!
At the top of Perry we look across to the other side and see nothing but smooth seas. We pull out the radio in case we have to announce our presence to the ferry and large cruise boats. We are entertained by 10 otters before we cross. Most of the way across is the Dutch Island Group. Not many places to camp here, but there is a good spot to pull out, stretch our legs and have some lunch.
Nice having the tide going out as it gives us more options for breaks.
We stop one more time before we finish the crossing.
We could have camped here, but the seas stayed calm all day so we carry on and make it to the other side. We get to camp rather late, but it puts us in good position to paddle up to Mears Glacier tomorrow.
Destination East side of Unakwik Bay ….miles paddled 26
June 20
Today we plan to paddle up Unakwik Inlet to see the Mears Glacier. This is new terrain for both of us. Mears glacier is one of the few glaciers in the Sound that is advancing. It is a long narrow fiord and we are glad that for most of the day the wind is not funneling down the fiord. The bays to the West are huge and we tentatively plan to stop at Jonas Bay tomorrow to camp. Now though we paddle steadily north to the Glacier. One reason many kayakers don’t visit this area is the lack of campsites. We have been told of one on the other side of the inlet so hope it turns out otherwise our paddle day will be a lot longer As we approach the glacier the temperature drops and we are glad for our extra layers.
Most of the glaciers in the area are retreating and you see rock bands where the ice has melted, but this glacier is moving forward. A campsite that had been used in previous years is gone and the trees on both sides of the glacier are being pushed over.
Watching glaciers never bore us!
Finally it is time to look for camp and warm up as we paddle away.
The water turns turquoise near the glacier. Lots of waterfalls are along the coast.
Now where is the campsite? We have it located on our map and when we land our kayaks we are glad that it is not going to be a high tide tonight. There are signs of a previous camp site, pretty rugged. There are lots of boulders and with some imagination we are able to put up a tent and find a somewhat nice spot for a dinner tarp. The Sound has treated us to another picture perfect day!
Lots of boulders!
Destination half way down Unakwik Inlet, by a river in a boulder field. miles traveled 26
June 21
In order for us to catch the outgoing tide, we wake up. at 3:30 and are on the water by 5. With the tide almost at high the loading of our boats was a lot easier than yesterday when we had to carefully unload our boats in a major boulder field. As we head toward Jonas Bay, we are again treated to mostly calm water.
The fog is lifting in the bays that we pass by. We hear the sound of a fishing boat before we see it. Most of the morning however, is done in silence as we marvel as always at the beauty of the sound. Even though we would like to paddle at a leisurely rate, we know that we need to paddle steadily to Jonas Bay. At the entrance of the Bay there is a moraine which at different tides make it difficult to enter. It is not a problem for our kayaks since we have little draft. By the time we reached the entrance the water flowing out was creating quite the. current. We were able to make some headway with some strong paddling.Eventually we were able to make it to the shore and figured out that we could probably make better progress if we lined our kayaks. Fortunately we had paddle pants on as the water was often above our knees. The day was severe blue and after getting thru the current we decided that we should paddle around the bay and check it out. We were not disappointed. In the back of the bay were huge tidal flats. The tide had mostly gone out by this time leaving a lot of ground exposed. Numerous flocks of birds were taking advantage of eating in the tidal zone. One duck entertained us for awhile.
A Common Golden Eye
Finally it was time to start looking for a campsite. This may be harder than we first thought. Camping on the beach was not going to be an option as we figured out where the tide was going to be tonight. We did find a spot that would work for our kitchen. The only challenge would be that we would have to cook before the tide came in.
Glad the tide wasn’t going to get higher. We will have to move the kitchen before we go to bed.
The view from the kitchen before the tide came up
We didn’t mind moving our kitchen up on the rocks. the view was outstanding.
Our only option for camping was to find a spot on higher ground. We were only going to spend one night here so we found a spot that would would have little impact. The view here was also outstanding.
With camp made it was time to turn to other activities. Don decided to try his luck at setting the shrimp pot.
Several hours later, he paddles out to see what he may have caught.
There is a lot of effort in pulling up the pot.
Unfortunately for Don the shrimp didn’t cooperate and Don returns to camp with an empty pot. No worries we have plenty of food!
It was diificult to go to sleep with such a view out the the tent and the sun barely setting. I think we had the whole bay to ourselves.
Destination South Side of Jonas Bay… miles paddled 14
June 22
We went to bed feeling the warmth of the sun thru the tent. During the night a front moved thru and the temperature dropped. By morning it was chilly and our extra layers felt good. We had taken our tarp kitchen down last night as the tide was going to make it unusable. We had a cold breakfast and easily packed our boats to head towards Olson Island. We have timed the tide well and we head out of the bay with the tide.
Leaving Jonas Bay! Wouldn’t mind returning to this place again.
The majority of the morning found us paddling on calm seas, but then just to give us a bit of challenge the wind picked up as we were nearing Olsen Island. Olsen Island had been a fox farm in the early 1900’s. We camped on a large beach on the southern end. We decided to take a hike and found remnants of the fox farm.
There were a lot of open meadows on the island which made it easy to walk. The flowers were close to peak!
Sun Dew..a carnivore plant.
Deer Cabbage
Returning from the hike, Don decides to try his luck at fishing and I bake some bread. Both are successful!
Nothing is better than fresh caught fish says Don!
Don decides to put out the shrimp pot before we head to bed.
Destination Olsen Island…miles paddled 12
June 23
Today we aren’t not too concerned about the tide. We haven’t totally decided our route and may let the weather dictate which way we go. Don heads out to check his shrimp pot and once again he pulls up an empty one. We have breakfast, break camp and are on the water a little after 8. We are greeted by a flotilla of otters and their young as we head west. Very little wind and blue skies have us settling into a meditative paddle. We pass several bays to the north that we have previously explored and decide that this trip we will pass by. We follow a whale for awhile and then realize that we have paddled past Esther passage. We have decided that tomorrow we want to visit some of the glaciers in Harriman. The best route is to paddle north thru Esther Passage so we retrace some of our strokes and find the entrance to the passage. We are glad for the long days as we want to make it all the way thru the passage. Fortunately it is calm and eventually we make it to the mouth of the passage and make camp on a gravel beach. It is late in the night, so just a bit of food and soon we are cozy in our sleeping bags.
Destination North side of Esther Passsge . miles paddled 27
June 24
We get an early start, cross college fiord and head north up Barry Arm. There must be an opener as Fishing boats and tenders are on the move. Once again we get to experience no wind and calm seas. It always amazes me when I paddle up this arm, to think that John Muir was on the Harriman Epedition that named a lot of the glaciers in this area in the summer of 1899. When he was here there were many icebergs in the area and it was very difficult to explore the area. Some of the early trips that Don and I did up here was around 100 years later. Most of the glaciers were still tidewater glaciers and one of the places that we camped, needed special attention to make a landing. Since a calving glacier can cause large waves, one boat at a time would go in to shore, unload and pull their boat way up the shore. The next boat would do the same and hopefully they could get unloaded before the glacier calved. Quite a few times at least some of the boats would get swamped by a wave. Not so now, the glacier has retreated 100’s of feet and no longer poses that danger.
We park our boats and scramble up on some rocks to get a better view.
Not many icebergs.
The ice that does fall into the water often comes in broken up chunks as it falls and hits the cliffs.
A closer view of the same glacier. ( Just an added note. The summer of 2020 a major crack was discovered in one of these glaciers and it was determined that there was a potential for a major landslide. The worst case scenario was the slide could cause a 30 foot tidal wave that would reach Whittier in 30 minutes. Needless to say kayak travel in this area is no longer recommended. Hope this isn’t the last time we see this area.) We say good-by to the Barry Arm Glaciers and head over to Point Doran and hug the shoreline till Harriman Bay. we check out the Forest service cabin there before heading towards Hobo Bay. At Hobo we find the perfect campsite at the entrance to Hobo. A beautiful flat site with views of the bay and the sound. So Peaceful!
Todays paddle took us from the entrance of Esther Passage up Harriman and back south to Hobo…Miles paddled 26
June 25
We wake to a cloudy somewhat windy day. We pack up and head towards Passage Canal. The wind is on our backs so we decide that our umbrellas will come in handy for a sail! Someday we will get a kayak sail!
Don tries this method
This also works when we hold our boats together.
As we head closer to Passage Canal, the skies become hazy and we can smell smoke. We have tentatively decided that we are going to try to make it to Emerald and then go to Whittier tomorrow. We have had several long paddle days and we are getting a little tired. But we are not sure with the smoke and weather deteriorating that it will be worth spending another night out when we are so close. To help us make this decision even easier the tide and wind push us towards Whittier. We pass by Emerald and see the towers of Whittier in view. Soon we are at our van unloading the kayaks and easily making the tunnel. We will be sleeping in our bed tonight. What a great trip
Hobo to Whittier..miles paddled 26
Total miles for the trip a little over 200