Feb.24

Shikoku means “Four Countries” and refers to the four prefectures of the island. As we walk the pilgrimage we will be walking thru all four of them The numbering of the temples begins in Tokushima. This section of temples 1-23 is known as the”spiritual awakening”. The next prefecture that we will walk thru is Kochi. This section of temples 24-39 is known as ascetic training. The third prefecture is Ehime. Here we will walk from temple 45-65. The last section is walking from temple 66-88 thru the prefecture known as Kagawa. Kagawa represent Nirvana. We plan to walk clockwise starting with Temple 1 and after going to Temple 88 return to temple 1 completing the circle.

Yesterday we did 5 temples. We have a ways to go before reaching 88. We are taking this pilgrimage one day at a time and being open to so many new experiences. Last night our hosts asked us what time we wanted breakfast. It seemed that most of the guests want to eat at 6 so we added our names to that time. It was a delicious Japanese breakfast consisting of rice, eggs, pickled vegetables, green tea and Nato. Nato comes in a small container. One removes the top and stirs the contents. It is fermented soybeans. It has an unusual taste, but everyone at the table including us finished it.

We were off and knowing that we had about 18 miles to walk and 6 temples to visit our pace was steady. Most pilgrims try to spend the first night of the pilgrimage at temple 6. Unfortunately they were having a conference and couldn’t take any guests. It probably worked for the best as we enjoyed our last nights accommodation. We would have been late getting to temple 6.

When we arrived to temple 6, it had just opened and the grounds were quiet and peaceful. This temple has been known for hosting guests for the last 400 years. The temple even has its own hot spring.

After having gone thru the rituals 5 times yesterday, we were more at ease going thru the routine. First bowing at the gate, cleansing your hands, ringing the bell, lightning the candles and putting incense into the sandy container. Then heading to the main hall followed by the dashido hall. Next step is getting your book signed. Last step is remembering to face the gate as you leave and bow.

All the photos below are from Anrakuji Temple 6

A two story pagoda modeled after the pagoda in Koyasan

Heading to temple 7 we noticed this sign on the road. This sign is for people driving in cars. We are taking the walking route.

Temple 7 or Jurakuji is a small roadside temple located right on the path.

Often many of the statues will have red bibs. We have a lot to learn.

Shortly after we leave temple 7 we are approached by a man on a bicycle.He knows some English and is curious why we are here and where we are from. When we say Alaska, he gives us a big smile.

We have learned several greetings in Japanese. Our favorite one is konnichiwa, which is said as a hello in the afternoon. We get a lot of smiles with that word.

So far today the walk has been mostly flat. We are impressed with all of the agriculture that is going on. The gardens are very neat and weed free.

The Japanese people are serious gardners.

Along the route there are Henro rest shelters. Most are not for sleeping, but are used to get out of the elements and take a rest.

It is about an hour walk to the next Temple called Kumandanji. The gate that one enters is one of the largest gates of the pilgrimage. It is over 30 feet wide and over 40 feet high.

Another pagoda that is patterned after the one in Koysan is built here

The Tahoto treasure tower was built in 1774

Often one sees tied paper strips on a wire. Pilgrims write prayers on them and then tie them on the wire.

Don discovers that he can buy hot coffee in a can from vending machines that are frequent along the path.

Don has a big smile with this discovery.

It was an easy walk to the next temple as we headed downhill walking between rice and vegetable fields . The next temple was called Horinji (9). Here one can pray for the healing of your feet. The earliest pilgrims wore straw sandals that frequently had to be replaced.

Saying Sutras or praying at the main hall.

This temple also had wooden beads that you could turn and pray.

Wooden Beads somewhat reminiscent of the small hand beads that some of the pilgrims carry and use when praying.

The next temple that we visit is Kirihataji (10) On the way is a gift shop to purchase any items that you forgot to get at the beginning. The owner spoke excellent English and told us about an Undon restaurant that we will pass on the way to the next temple. It was an easy walk to get to the bottom of the stairs going to the temple.

Lots of steps going up to the temple so we left our backpacks at the bottom.

This pagoda has a cornered upper floor rather than round ones.

In the office was another example of how you can record your visit to each temple. Some people carry a white scroll to have the Monk mark it with calligraphy.

Examples of scrolls that have each temple designated.

On the way to temple 11, we pass another rest area.

We were excited and very hungry when we saw the sign for the udon restaurant. There wasn’t any English spoken, but the menu had pictures of each item so it was easy to point to the food we wanted.

You can tell there is a lot of pride in preparing the food. It was great.

When we were leaving fresh fish was brought into the fish tank.

It was about 6 miles to the next temple and our lodging for the night was close to it.This temple is called Fujiidera and is one of three Zen temples. We passed more blossoming trees on the way.

In a couple more weeks the island should be alive in cherry blossoms. It is a time of many festivals.

We arrive to the temple before it closes and have a little time to explore. From temple 11 to temple 12 is one of the harder hikes of the pilgrimage.

We have noticed several pillars in the temples with the following message.

We have added praying for peace to our prayers at the temple.

We almost ran to the the guest house for the night, not wanting to be late. Fortunately it was down hill from the temple. We were greeted at the door and quickly asked if we had food to eat. When we said no, he offered to take us to the nearby town to buy food for the night and the hike tomorrow. We were expecting a convenience store, but it turned out to be a large grocery store. I probably could have stayed there for several hours looking at all of the choices. That was not going to happen so we grabbed some food and headed back to the guest house. The name of the guest house is Oyado eleven. I think that it had just recently opened. The owner was very helpful and when he realized we did not have lodging for the next couple of nights, he quickly made some phone calls and within 10 minutes we had rooms for the next 5 nights. We won’t be doing as many miles that we are used to, but on the other hand it won’t be bad to slow down our pace. There are a lot of things to see besides the temple. The next nights lodging has a service of picking up our backpacks and taking to their guest house. Sounded good to us. We are carrying relatively heavy packs. We each have sleeping bags and pads.

Then we have a tent and cooking gear. My pack is close to 30 and Don’s in the mid 30’s.We made the decision to carry camping gear and even though it adds weight it gives us flexibility. We also are each carrying an extra pair of shoes knowing that after 500 miles we will need to replace them. Don wears a 14 so it is highly unlikely that he would find a pair here to fit him. What a day! Falling asleep in a bed is delitful. Plus the rain is starting to fall and we do not have to worry about getting wet.

Miles hiked 18

Accommodation Oyado 11