Feb. 23
The Shikoku pilgrimage is one of the oldest pilgrimages paths in the world. It is totally located on the island of Shikoku which is the fourth largest island in Japan. Over 1200 years ago Kukai (Kobo Daishi) lived here seeking enlightenment by meditating in some remote parts of the island. It is believed that most of the temples here were started by Kukai. This pilgrimage visits 88 of them hence the name The 88 pilgrimage route. If one decides to walk the route, they will walk about 800 miles. It may take between 40-60 days depending on ones speed and interest. Don and I took 55 days. We felt like we kept a steady pace. We visited some of the 20 Bekkaku temples if they were close to the route. Some of them take more than a day from the main route so we opted not to see them. We did try to research as much about the pilgrimage as we could using the internet and you tube videos. We also purchased the app Henro Helper which we found to be extremely helpful. We also purchased and carried with us The Shikoku Japan 88 route guide and The 88 temples of Shikoku by Oliver Dunkus. Eventually though your feet are on the ground and you immerse yourself in the journey.
Sleep did not come easy as we tossed and turned waiting for the morning. We were up by 5 and headed to the train station by 7 to get the train to Bando. As we were waiting, we noticed another American sitting on a bench waiting for the train. We soon found out that his name was Clark from Michigan and he was doing the pilgrimage as well. He is planning a faster itinerary so we may not see him after today. We have some of the same unanswered questions. One of the biggest ones is accommodations. We have both found it difficult to figure out the best way to reserve lodging. We have our first few nights covered, but after that it may get interesting. We didn’t want to spend too much time figuring it out, as we are not clear on how to figure our time walking and time visiting the temples. We have done a lot of thru hiking and know our speed, but this is going to be completely different. We have planned to visit 5 temples today and have a reservation at a Henro house called Morimotoya.
The train as expected was on time and 20 minutes later we were getting off and heading to a store to buy some Henro supplies. No special items are needed to walk the trail, but by having some of them one knows that you are doing the pilgrimage. The local people are more likely to interact with you and assist you if needed. Items you can purchase are a sedge hat,( we tried them on, but with our backpacks they were hard to wear), white vest( we both purchased these.) a shoulder bag(used for carrying candles, incense, lighter, name slips and a pilgrimage book)(Don bought one and the items that went in it.),and a staff(Don is using the one from Koyasan). The staff represents Kobo Dashi and when using it, the idea is that Kobo Dashi walks with you. One could also purchase a stole and a bell. With our newly purchased items we were ready to head to Temple 1. As we left the store, we encountered a large group of people with matching shirts. There were TV cameras and lots of excited activity. We soon found out that the mayor of Tokushima was here promoting the 88 pilgrimage trail. Don and I were approached and asked some questions in English, as we were being filmed. Later we did find out that we were on the video that was produced. As we were walking to temple one, the mayor and the group loaded a bus and the moment of chaos was gone.
As we approached the gates of the temple. A man came walking excitedly towards us. In his broken English we discoverd that he had just walked the complete trail in reverse. This being a leap year, some pilgrims will walk the trail counter clockwise. Usually the way though is clockwise. He wanted us to take his photo and then he wanted to take ours.
Meeting him was a great way to start our journey,
Don and I in front of Ryozenji (Temple !)
From watching you tube and reading books we had an idea of the procedure for visiting temples. We tried to be respectful and follow the guidelines. First one bows at the gate before entering.
Then using the ladles found usually at the front of the temple. you do a cleansing ritual.
The next step is ringing the bell once.
After ringing the bell, one heads over to the Hondo Hall and then the Dashido(the hall for honoring Kobo Dashi). In front of each of the these places is a cabinet to place a lighted candle. From the candle you light 3 pieces of incense to be put in a basin of sand. Having lit the candle and the incense you are now ready to approach the halls and pray or say a sutra. There is also an offering box here as well as a place to put your name slips. These slips often will have things written on them by you that your are praying about.
The last thing one does before leaving the temple is to take your pilgrimage book to the office to be stamped and signed by a monk or volunteer doing calligraphy. The calligraphy specifies the temple name, and the number. There is a cost of 500 yen to have your book signed. This is your record to say that you have visited that temple. As you leave the temple you pass thru the gate and then bow facing the gate.
Temple One is somewhat different from the rest of the temples, because you can actually go inside the Hondo to look around. Most of the Hondos are protected by a barrier of wood that one can see thru, but not enter.
This temple is known for the lanterns on the roof. There are so many things to look at around the temples that one has to be aware of the time if they have a reservation at a Henro house. One needs to check in early at these accommodations as one needs to bathe before dinner. We like seeing the little buddhas in the fish pond.
After leaving this temple we decided to take a short detour to a Shinto temple. They are often marked by an orange structure leading to the temple.
This shrine seemed to be popular for blessing young children as there were several families with babies standing in front of the temple.
We especially wanted to visit this temple. It was said that visiting and praying here will protect one when. on the road and as well be able to prevent misfortune associated with age or direction. We would prefer not getting lost and approaching that being older era.
It is only a little over a kilometer to the next temple and the trail is flat.
Gokurakuji Temple 2
There was a beautiful garden here as well as several monkeys. We weren’t expecting that.
We are reinforcing our rituals by watching other pilgrims. A lot of the pilgrims either take buses or drive cars to visit the temples. It is a short walk to the next temple. Sometimes we walk on pavement other times on dirt paths. We keep a look out for arrows that show us we are going the right way.
It is nice to be off of the pavement for awhile. It is about 3 km to the next temple.
Konzenji or Temple 3 At this temple was a well that supposedly was built by Kobo Dashi, There were small bottles of water for sale that might be helpful for longevity. Again we marveled at some of the buildings. There was a slight hint of beginning cherry blossoms. We are looking forward to being here when they are in full bloom.
The next temple is about 5 km away. It is situated in a valley with steep mountains on three sides.
The name of this temple is called Dainichji or Temple 4 It is one of the smaller temples that we have visited today. It is well maintained and even has a following on Facebook. The next temple and the last one we are going to visit today is called Jizoji,
Jizoji is a simple temple located around a large square. It is said one can pray here for long life.
At most of the temples are statues of Kobo Dashi in his pilgrim attire, There are usually benches that you can leave your backpacks while visiting the temple.
Next stop was our Henro house for the night. We were glad that it was a very short distance from the temple. We were greeted by the hostess who showed us our room and took our clothes to be washed. Most places give you a yugata (bath robe) to wear after bathing and even at dinner. This would be our first meal served at a guest house. Needless to say it was amazing. The photo is the only description needed,
There were several other guests here who were doing parts of the route. We were the only ones hoping to do all of it.
Today we visited temple 1-5
Walked 8.5 miles
Lodging Morimotoya