Australia - Overland Tract 12/2023

Dec. 8

After the three hour bus ride, we were glad to find that our hotel was in easy walking distance. We are staying at the Best Western Plus Launceston Hotel and near by is a Woolworth grocery store. Food and shelter makes one a happy camper. We also see a sign promoting the Saturday Market. We plan to go check it out tomorrow, but are really looking forward to going to bed.

Dec. 9

The market did not disappoint. It was quite easy to find delicious food plus!

We tried out the bakery treats and were glad that our hike begins tomorrow. It would be so easy to overeat here.

It is summer here and the flowers are out in full display.

We checked out the indoor botanical garden.

And had fun watching the newly hatched ducklings.

It was a good day to just slow down and take some deep breaths!

Dec. 10

Today the Overland Tract will become a reality. Way back in July Don was patiently and a little nervous sitting in our van in Alaska hoping that he would not loose cell service. We had figured out the day and time that the permits for this hike would come open. When Don signed in to the Tasmania Parks website figuring he would be on time, the number 450 came into focus. He had 450 people ahead of him trying to get the dates they wanted to do the hike. After 2 hours of watching and refreshing the computer he finally was up. To his surprise the date that we wanted was still available. In 1931 9 hikers finished the track today there are over 8000. In the summer season there is a fee as well as the requirement to go in one direction. One must start at the Cradle Mountain Trail Head and finish at Lake St. Clair There are huts at each designated campsite with water and toilets. There are 34 permits given for each day. One does not need to stay at particular huts, the main limitation for the trail is how much food you carry. We are planning for 6 night and 7 days.

We have reserved transportation with the Overland Track Transport. They will pick us up at our hotel and take us to the trailhead at Cradle Mountain. We asked for a wake up call, but it did not happen. With my internal alarm clock, it wasn't necessary and we were at the entrance waiting for the shuttle in plenty of time.

Our vehicle is driven by a man who has hiked the track and who also shares information about the track..

About an hour into the drive we stopped at the small town of Sheffield. Many years ago they had started a competition with artists to paint murals on the numerous building. It is quite impressive. Each year they have different themes for the competitions and some lucky artists get to paint the walls.

We are looking forward to seeing some of the animals and birds portrayed here especially the platypus.

Another reason to stop here is a well known bakery. There won’t be any places to buy food till we get to the end of the track.

We arrive to the visitor center around 9 and check in to get our permit. We have a briefing with a ranger that includes showing a well made movie about hypothermia. There can be snow here in July so so the theme of being prepared was promoted.

The Overland Track has become quite popular and there has been a lot of money put into the track. A shuttle takes us to the trail head. There are quite a few hikers here, most of them are just planning to do a day hike which a permit is not needed.

We take the obligatory photo next to the sign and we are off.

Our packs feel heavy, actually they are, but other hikers have heavier ones.

Todays hike is reportedly the hardest day. For the first day of hiking with full food that is unfortunate.

We are not quite 100 percent (health wise) yet, but almost. The trail winds around the plants and past a waterfall. We pass by Crater Lake left over from a glaciated period.

Once past this lake we begin our ascent to Marion’s lookout. This section is the steepest part of the whole trail even having chains to assist you as you climb upwards. The section is relatively short so it is not to difficult. A lot of people are eating at the lookout, so we decide to hike on to an old hut called Kitchen Hut,

Kitchen Hut is only to be used for emergencies.

We stop here for lunch and contemplate if want to climb Cradle Mountain. We still have some miles to go before we get to the hut tonight and decide we will just view it from afar.

We can make out people on the summit. Not climbing it today gives us a good reason to return someday.

The trail flattens out as we make our way towards Barn Bluff.

Barn Bluff and Cradle Mountain were left exposed as the glacier went around them.

We check out this emergency shelter. Sure looks like it can withstand lots of wind.

Barn Bluff comes into view

Most people climb this mountain from the WaterFall Hut which we are headed to tonight.

We appreciate the board walks. Along the track we pass the Tasmania Waratah it blooms during the Christmas season.

There is a distinct valley in the distance and we figure that most likely this is where the hut is located. We loose a lot of elevation and pretty much decide that we do not want to hike back up the trail to the Barn Buff summit in the morning. There are several more options to do some peaks so we opt for one of those.

Waterfall Hut is relatively new and we check out the bunk rooms.

The bunk room.The construction is only a couple of years old.

We could stay in the hut, but we opt to sleep on one of the tent platforms.

A wallaby with a joey has a lot of onlookers. The wallaby appears to be quite calm around the hikers.

We hiked about 11km today. It feels good to be out on the trail. The landscape is quite different than anything we have experienced. We are also seeing unique animals as well.

Dec. 11

When we first arrived to the hut yesterday, we were ones of the first ones here. More hikers arrived during the late afternoon and the hut filled up. There are several guided groups hiking as well. A higher end guided group have their own huts and hike only with day packs. Another guided group carries their own backpacks and sleep in a area designated for their group. Neither of the guided groups have access to the public huts on the route except for the toilets and water.

When the sun is above the horizon, we pack up and head towards the next hut. Several of the hikers in the hut are going to head to Barn Bluff to summit..We opt not to do it and decide that our side trip today will be to Lake Will. The distance between the huts is a lot shorter than yesterday. The terrain is also quite easy. Some hikers skip this next hut and move to the next one. We contemplate that idea, but as the day warms up, we decide that a shorter hike would be just fine.

It is a beautiful morning as we head down the trail.

Flowers are in bloom on each side of the trail.

We arrive to a sign and a wooden platform.

There is a wooden platform here to leave your packs as you head to the lake.

The lake is a cold Alpine Lake with some hikers taking a dip. We decide that having a snack along the shore is good enough for us. On the way back to our packs several of the guided hiking groups are headed towards the lake.

When we return to get our packs, there is a lot more color on the platform.

We had been warned both verbally and by written information that one needs to cover their packs when leaving it unattended. The reason being that the Black Currawong. a bird with a very large beak has the ability to open up zippers on your pack and get to your food. Looks like everyone heeded their advice.

Along the board walk we see the scat of the Wombat. There is no mistaken this scat for any other animal.

Most have a very square form and are usually deposited on the boardwalk or a rock that is higher than the surrounding ground. The wombat is more of a nocturnal animal. We saw one from a distance at the hut last night but are hoping that we will have a closer encounter.

The walk today is noticeable more mellow than yesterday. It is mainly flat as we walk thru heathlands and alpine gums.

There are also numerous small lakes along the track. A couple hikers spotted a platypus , but it was gone by the time we arrived.

We walk thru a pandani forest and a forest of trees that doesn’t provide much shade.

We encountered our first tiger snake on the trail. As soon as we saw it we stopped and it quickly moved away. We were glad that the information given us to about this quite poisonous snake is that they are not aggressive and will most likely try to leave the area. We still are prudent when we step over logs to make sure one isn’t sleeping there.

We arrive to the hut about noon. We could easily hike to the next hut, but the day has turned hot, so we decide to set up our tent and enjoy being here. We meet a park ranger who took a NOLS course with an instructor that we know. She wants to hike the PCT so we spend some time talking to her. Don decides that a siesta would be nice, so I wander down to the hut and meet some of the other hikers. Meeting people is always a fun part of any hike that we do.

The hut today looks over Lake Windermere. Short hike today only about 6 miles

We walked down to the lake this evening to enjoy the view and perhaps see a platypus. the view was great the platypus didn’t show.

A short day of hiking only about 6 miles

Dec. 12

We were awakened by a morning chorus of birds that went on for a long time. We had a leisurely breakfast and afterwards packed up our gear and headed down the trail.

The first thing that we noticed was numerous intricate spider webs on tree branches. The light was such that the strands of the webs were emphasized.

In the distance we catch a view of Barn Bluff.

Today is starting out to be a really good one for hiking. The morning air is cool, but as the sun rises so will the temperature.

We hike thru more pandani forests and negotiate around muddy sections of trail. We haven’t had any rain yet but a storm may move in tomorrow,

As the trail flattens out we take a side trail to the check out the Forth River. There are dramatic valleys on each side of the trail. We have great views of the surrounding mountains.

We eventually make our way down to Pelion Plains, passing the old Pelican hut which we will take a hike back to see later today.

Pelican Hut comes into view. It is another hut that has recently been renovated.

There are more hikers here as this hut has access from several different trails. You do not need an Overland track permit to camp here. There aren’t any platforms, but there are plenty of flat places to pitch a tent.

Across the plains is a great photo of Mt.Oakleigh to the north.

Apparently the summit is the place to be when the sun sets. We choose to see the sun set from the hut.

A nearby stream is a good place to rinse off and look for fossils.

We spend some time taking to Matt and Tully. Tully is 10 and her Dad is taking her on the track. Her brother did it at 10 as well. We enjoy talking to them. Matt has worked in the outdoor field and is quite familiar with NOLS.

We also learn today that another couple who is hiking the trail is related to them. Matt’s brother Tom and his wife Vanessa have joined them for this trip.

It has been a lot of fun getting to know them as well.

We are on the same pace and will be staying at the same huts for the next couple of days.

We take a walk to the Old Pelican hut after dinner. A lot of relics are scattered about. Matt remembers years ago when this was the main hut.

When the sun sets so do we and soon are enjoying the coziness of the sleeping bags. Don spent too much time talking and his cough has returned.

We hiked about 17 km today.

Dec.13

This is the day we want to go up to a peak. This is also the day that a major rainfall is forecasted to occur. We have learned that a large cyclone has been devastating northern Australia with high winds and rain. We may be experiencing some of the lower bands of it as it moves thru. We woke early to clear skies so after a quick breakfast we are on the was to Pelican Gap.

Before we leave camp a yellow wattlebird lands near our tent.

The bird was easy to identify with the long decorative wattles hanging from its cheeks.

Today we will start and end at the same elevation. There are several mountains to choose from for a summit attempt, if the weather cooperates.The morning hike finds us ascending steadily to pelican gap. At Pelican Gap

there are trails going off in each direction towards several mountain peaks. We are some of the first ones to arrive here and decide to head up to Pelican East. There are dark clouds on the horizon and if the weather deteriorates , we may be descending quickly. There are places to leave our packs here and we secure them well to prevent a currawong from getting a free lunch.

The pathway at the beginning of the trail is well marked and has quite the set of stairs.

We pass by a currawong who appears to be stealthily hiding in a nearby bush hoping for some backpacks to tear into.

We are in awe of the Scoparia which is found in abundance here.

The multitude of colors make quite the palette of colors. We take our time going up the path .

Once we get past the board walk and into more of a scramble type of trail, the trail is not quite as well marked and we wander for awhile. The views are amazing so even though we are off track, it doesn’t seem to matter.

We see Matt and Tully who found the path to the top. Tully is excited because they were able to get some cell service and to play wordle. She has come up with a plan for us to play when we get to the hut.

We make our way back down to our packs.

This was a great choice for the hike today.

When we get to the gap where our packs are, a lot of hikers have arrived. The sound of thunder is in the distance and the storm is moving our way. We have done all of the elevation gain for today so we can move quickly on the descent.We are surprised that some of the guided groups are just starting up towards the summit.

It is starting to rain as we descend and we pick up our pace. There is also some thunder and lightning. We are glad we got an early start and were down off the mountain before the storm completely moves in. Another recently remodeled hut comes into view. We are glad to see Kia Ora. Before arriving to the hut we pass one of the large guided hut lodges. These hikers sleep in beds every night and from what we hear their meals are not your regular camping fare. There is a trekking pole marking the trail to the lodge of the guided hikers. We walk past it but later learn that a well meaning hiker took it and brought it to Kia Ora thinking that someone in the regular huts must have lost it. Even thought there is a hard or heavy rain as they say here is forecast ,we decide to find a tent platform to pitch our tent. Our next hike does not have huts so we decided to see how our tent fares in this wind/rain storm.

We decided to cook in the hut as Tully has devised a plan to challenge Don and I at a game of Wordle. After explaining the rules we guess a word and discover that we have come up with some correct letters.. The next word we guess is the Wordle word. Lucky for us not so for Tully who had spent some time coming up with the game. We spend some more time talking and then notice a helicopter circling the hut.

There is a landing pad nearby and we all watch in the uncertainty of why it is here. The first thought was that someone had been injured, but later find out that some hikers in the guided group saw a lightning strike and thought they saw smoke. Fires can be devastating here so the rangers wanted it quickly checked out. Fortunately it wasn’t a fire.; The rain is starting so we head off to the tent to prepare for the storm. On the way to the tent we see one of the leaders of the guided hike running down the trail, looking for hikers from his group. We later learn that the hikers walked right past the trail to the lodge as the trekking pole was gone. An hour later we see the group returning with the leader, looking tired and wet.

Meanwhile the wind has picked up and the rain is pelting the tent. We end up putting our umbrellas near the door as the rain is blowing up under the tent. This could be a long night! The wind died some and the sound of the not so violent rain lulled us to sleep.

We hiked about 7 miles today including the hike to Pelican East

Dec. 14

After the initial hard rain last night, the remaining bands of storms that moved thru were not so severe. By morning we were able to pack up when there was a lull in the rain. Yesterday was the mountain day, today is the water fall day. There are three falls that we will be visiting today. They should be roaring as we have had quite a bit of rain. On the way to the first waterfall we pass by Du Cane Hut, the oldest huts on the trail. We check out the interior before moving to the first waterfall. We see a sign marking the trail to the falls. We leave our packs and head down. We come to the first falls, at least we thought it was the first one and we weren’t exactly impressed.

This was just a small stream flowing into the larger river below.

We wind our way down the path until we reach Fergusson Falls, it is much more impressive.

Then it is off to nearby D’Alton falls.

This one is also impressive, but it is hard to get a good angle to take the whole falls.

I make my way up to the edge, holding on tightly.

The last falls of the day is called Hartnett Falls. We make out way to the top of the falls and opt not to go to the bottom of the falls.

It continues quite a ways down. One of the hiking groups went to the bottom and said that the current from all the rain was quite impressive.

With the rain still coming down we decided to head to the Windy Ridge hut.

We hike up to Du Cane Cap with Matt and Tully before the descent to Windy Ridge hut.

Tully is teaching me how to count to 10 in Japanese. I have a long way to go.

We are now walking in a rain forest and the trees indicate that the rain is quite common here. When we arrive to Windy Ridge there is a place to hang wet clothes and to cook inside. There are no decks here as the rain doesn’t give you many sunny days to enjoy it.

This is one of the lsat days that we will be hiking with some of the people that we have met. The next hut, Narcissus Hut is where the ferry comes in to give an option to hikers if they don’t want to hike the last 12 miles to Lake St. Clair. We have opted to hike the last section so we will have one more night on the tract. Tully, Matt, Tom. and Vanessa are taking the ferry.

We will see Mike, Dave, Meg and Kate. at the next hut. Dave and Kate are siblings. Dave lives in Melbourne and we may try to contact him when we are there. He plans to send us information of things to do when visiting there.

These folks are also taking the ferry. The two couples are from the states but their daughter now lives in Tasmania. She was quite helpful in giving us things to do in Hobart.

This is a smaller hut and the rooms are quite crowded. Don and I are happy to spend the night in our tent.

It was a short hike today only about 6 miles.

Dec. 15

As usual Don and I are one of the first hiking groups up and after a quick breakfast, we begin our hike to Echo Hut. Todays hike take us thru a forest of tall eucalypts tree. We take a moment to breathe in their beauty.

We are definitely in a rain forest, quite the contrast of the earlier hiking days. The trail is mostly down hill to Narcissus Hut where a ferry meets hikers on Lake St. Clair.

The trail is well maintained with boardwalks in many of the muddy sections.

We pass another group of hikers whom we have met at each hut.

A super nice couple from the mainland of Australia. I have had lots of good conversations with Kylie. She has wanted to do this hike for a long time and finally convinced her daughter and husband to come along. They don’t share her enthusiasm , but it appears they are also enjoying it. They are also going to hike to Lake St. Clair so we will be camping with them tonight.

On the way to the hut we cross the only suspension bridge on the hike.

We walk across it quietly and hope to see a platypus below us. They are mostly seen at night so our chances of seeing one our slim. It has become a goal of ours to see one before we leave Australia as Don remembers writing a report on this fascinating animal when he was in elementary school.

We have lunch at the Narcissus hut and are soon among lots of hikers who have either hiked up from Lske St. Clair or are going to go on the ferry today. We say goodby to some of the hikers who are now our friends. On the way to the bathroom, a large tiger snake is basking in the sun. It doesn’t seem to mind that there are many photos being taken. We have seen a couple tiger snakes on the trail, but they have always quickly slithered away.

The Tiger Snake is quite poisonous, which is why we have worn high gators. They are generally quite shy but if you do encounter one that isn’t and it wants to attack, often the material of the gaitor will prevent it from making contact with your skin.

After the hut, the trail isn’t bad, but not of the same standard that the previous trail has been. There is downfall across the trail and I carefully step over it making sure no snake is hanging out on the other side. Then to my surprise as I am rounding a corner on the trail I look down at my feet as a large Tiger snake is moving over them. I sure didn’t see that one coming. I am not sure who was more surprised the snake or me. I quickly step back almost knocking Don down. I take a moment to slow down the breathing and check to see if somehow in the confusion I might have gotten bit. Thankfully all is well and we continue on with increasing snake awareness.

We are the second group to arrive to Echo Hut. There is also a couple here that are deaf. They have been at each hut, but other than waving hi we haven’t made conservation. This is about to change. Kylie and crew have a reservation to get a shuttle to Hobart tomorrow late afternoon. They will arrive probably by late morning to Lake St. Clair and want to ask any of the hikers here if they have an earlier shuttle. We approach the deaf couple and with the help of a translator phone we begin our conversation with them. Don and I soon begin a fascinating conversation with them.

Scott and Shayna are a couple that have been deaf since birth. They met at a deaf school and both taught at a school for the deaf. They became interested in doing outdoor pursuits to inspire other deaf individuals to set goals and reach them. Their current goal is to climb the 7 summits. They have climbed Everest and Denali. As we continued to talk by using their phone, we discovered that we have some mutual friends. We are so impressed by their endeavors. They are from the United States and have recently done a road trip visiting many deaf organizations to give talks. We will be following them on their instagram site.(scottandshayna)

Dec. 16

It was a chilly night as the rain fell most of the night. During the night a small critter had chewed thru the corner of our tent and also chewed some of the top of a water bottle. Glad that it didn’t join us in the tent. We ate in the tent and headed out with full rain gear on. It is about a 6 mile hike to the visitor center on Lake St. Clair. We passed the tent of Scott and Shayna, thankful that we had taken the extra step of getting to know them. The trail is mostly flat and in some of the places quite muddy with all the rain.

We have to stop several times to marvel at the very green tree ferns,

All the rain has added to the shininess of the leaves.

The day is windy and blustery. It reminds us of a place in our home of Alaska called Prince William sound. From a distance we can see the ferry making its way back to the dock near the visitor center.

it is a windy wet day. We are on the lookout for snakes but assume that this is the day they are probably hiding away sheltered from the weather. We pass by more of the large Myrtle trees. This trail has lots of roots that one has to navigate thru making the pace somewhat slower. We have heard though that there is a restaurant at Lake St. Clair which is known for its Overland Burger. With that thought in mind our pace quickens,

As we near the visitor center, the trail is much improved and has informational descriptions along the trail. Soon we see the visitor center and realize that this track is over.

We head into the restroom to wash our hands before ordering the famous Overland Burger. It lived up to its reputation and with ice cream for desert we are quite satisfied.

Across from the restaurant is the visitor center with exhibits of the plants and animals in the park. Since we didn’t see live ones, we thought it appropriate to take photos of the stuffed ones.

Our hope is that before our time in Australia ends we will see the above animals alive in their natural habitat.

At the visitor center we meet the ranger called Josh who is at the counter answering questions. We see the booklet of the South Coast Track for sale and purchase it. In about a week we will be starting that track. Upon buying it from him, he tells us that he has worked there and would be glad to share information with us. We plan to come back tomorrow to check with him. An interesting side note is that he lives on Bruny Island near to our friends Pip and Chris.

Before checking into our campsite we get a text from Pip. Chris and Pip had planned to pick us up tomorrow, but Pip is not feeling well and dosnt’t think it is a good idea for her to travel to Lake St. Clair. We totally understand and are able to find a shuttle that can take us back to Hobart in a couple of days. We are also able to reserve a campsite here for another night. There is laundry here and we can get good food at the restaurant. Staying for an extra day is also looking good as there are several hikes near the visitor center which look interesting. One is called platypus bay. This may be a good opportunity to seek out the elusive animal.

The campsite is run by the lodge and we have access to hot showers. There is also an enclosed kitchen area that will make cooking easy. There are open windows, however, and we are continually watched by an opportunist currawong.

Nothing is safe under its watchful eyes.

Time for bed and the realization that we will not be carrying our backpacks for the hikes tomorrow around the visitor center.

Dec. 17

We were up early, not because we couldn’t sleep in , but because Platypus Bay was a short distance away and perhaps the early morning hike would give us an opportunity to get to see the animal. It was a quiet, peaceful morning as we hiked the trail around St. Clair. There were mountains in the distance that framed the lake. There were lots of signs telling about the platypus and even a blind that one could stand behind looking for the unique animal. Alas none were to be seen this morning.

Donna noticed a bright orange color on the beach. At first we thought it was a fishing bobber, but it moved. First thought maybe the wind blew it and then it was flying in the air. We caught a glimpse of the Flame Robin. It quickly made up for not seeing the platypus. It didn’t pose long enough for a photo, but we will never forget the color of that bird.

We hike back on the Aboriginal track which has several signs telling about the early inhabitants of the land and how they used some of the plants. Some of the tribes were completely wiped out by the Europeans that landed on the island. It was a sad tale for the morning walk.

On the way back to our campsite we passed a couple of sculptures that noted the end of the Overland Track.

We spent the rest of the day cleaning and drying our gear, and planning for our next hike. We returned to the visitor center and had a good conversation with Josh. He gave us several weather apps which would be quite useful for planning the South Coast Track. He also warned us of a campsite to try to avoid due to rats.

On the walk to our campsite, we took a small detour to a trail along the lake. One of the animals that we hadn’t see yet was out foraging for ants. It didn’t seem to mind our presence and we were able to observe it closely.

It had quite the strong beak and sharp claws that made it well adept at getting its food. They also don’t have great eyesight so it came quite close to our feet. It also has numerous quills on its body. Most predators aren’t going to mess with it.

Since our plan to stay with Chris and Pip before our next track has been changed, we look for lodging in Hobert. One that has some interest is called Woolworth. They have availability and a good price. We book it for 5 days and look forward to exploring the area as well as getting our gear and food ready for our next track.

Dec. 18

We get up at a leisurely hour and head over to our favorite and only restaurant here. We are in time for their breakfast buffet. There is a new manager that is from Jordon. He is on his second day of work and we immediately see that he is setting high standards for the crew. He talks to us for awhile wanting to learn about the area.

Our shuttle is in the afternoon so we have time to dry all our gear and packs it up till our next hike, An older couple is camped near us and shares their experiences of hiking the tracks here for many years. They tell us what it was like before the track was well maintained and didn’t have all of the board walks.

Our shuttle arrives on time. It takes us about 3 hours to get to Hobart, the largest city on the Tasmania island. The Woolworth hotel is a remodeled building that had originally been used as a factory for making wool products from sheep. On the outside it looks like a factory, but on the inside it is a modern hotel. We are impressed with our room and make a plan for how we are going to use the next five days.

We head off a short distance to Salmelneca Fresh. A small food market that has Tasmania Cherries. Christmas time is when the well known Cherries ripen and we are going to take advantage of that!

Another warm shower and off to sleep in a bed with clean sheets.

This has been a great way to being introduced to Tasmania. We can see why the island is called the vacation place for all Australians.