July 19. last miles of paddling, finally the cabin, going backpacking, serenaded by a rain and wind storm

After an afternoon and evening of being winded in, the wind abated by morning and we were finally able to leave our good protected campsite. For the next several miles along the river we quickly realized how fortunate we were to have stopped when we did. We had stopped at the best location, If we had gone any farther, we most likely would have had to return back and camp where we had stayed. Several times we mentioned that the decision to stay was a good one. The sun and clouds set the scene for some beautiful photos.

Paddling seemed effortless compared to yesterday. When we finally rounded the point to head into the lake, we were surprised how shallow the lake was near the point. We had to go way around it in order not to get stuck in the sand. It would have been more challenging than we realized yesterday. The cabin was just across the way and off we went.

The cabin, is owned by the Canadian National Park and is also used by the local First Nation people. It was unlocked and we were able to store our paddling gear there while out on our hike.

Nearby was a tent platform that we used for changing our gear from paddling to hiking. We worked efficiently and several hours later the hiking expedition was ready to begin.

Our plan is tentatively to be gone for 5 days. This may change if the hiking is easier. Our destination is to get to the Ronciere Falls. We think it will be about 20 miles one way. The only trails are the ones made by caribou.

We wet off from the cabin and become immersed in the rolling hills of the Barren Lands.

The first couple of miles are a steady up and then back down to the river.

After about 3 miles we rejoin the river. For most of the way to the Falls we plan on walking parallel to the river.

At this point the river is mainly rocky, but we notice that the river is beginning to drop quickly. Soon we will be high above the river looking at the canyons.

It feels good to be walking and stretching our legs.

We cross several small streams and soon get a feel for what type of terrain is the easiest to walk on. We try to avoid the tussocks, but sometimes there is no other choice. Brian stays out ahead. His pack is the heaviest and finding places to give his back a rest is a high priority.

We come across what might be a fox trap according to Jim and Brian . There is a hole for the fox to enter and when he does the rocks make it difficult for it to get out.

We are into the canyon section of the River. The sides drop steeply to the bottom and many rapids are seen.

We stop often to check out the view, being careful not to get to close to the edge.

By late afternoon we are surrounded by storm cells. Thunder and then lightning become common. We don’t have a lot of options other than to keep hiking,

We are hoping that since there aren’t any trees, we may avoid attracting lightning. On the other hand, we are the highest object in the area. Just keep walking is the motto.

We are surrounded by an unsettled sky. Upon arriving to an area that has some relatively flat ground, we quickly put up our tent and then jump in as a hard rain begins to fall. We are all sharing a cooking tarp and decide to wait to see if this cell passes before setting it up. The thunder moves off in the distance and we emerge to an overcast but rain free sky. The tarp is quickly put up and our almost instant meals are eaten. We secure the tarp and head off to our tents. The next cell brings more rain and strong winds. We listen to the stakes straining in the wind, hoping that they hold. Then as quickly as it started it stops and when I unzip the tent, a brilliant rainbow shares the dark sky.

Time to go to sleep as the wind calms and we are lulled to sleep by the mosquitoes hitting out tent,

Miles hiked 9.5

July 20

Hiking thru vast spaces, plunging canyon walls, , bear tract and scat. major caribou trails next to the river. the Falls

The morning was calm compared to the storm that we had experienced last night. We were glad to see that the tarp was okay and that all of the pegs held in the tundra. We had finished our breakfast before Jim and Brian were seen leaving their tent. We both have our own style of travel that we do when we are in a group of two. It is easy to make this work though and we enjoy each others company. After packing up, we continue to head down river, hugging the rim and marveling at the scenic cliffs with the fast moving water below.

Easy to see why most people choose the option to hike to the falls. It is a good hiking temperature, but without much wind the mosquitoes are on a roll. After trying to fend them off with a swinging bandana and trying to cover my face. I surrender in defeat. I decide to join the rest of the crew by spraying my hat with mosquito repellant. It has been years since I have used repellant. I will never forget using Deet and having the plastic on my knife destroyed. Today we don’t have deet so I feel a little better about using it. We have donated blood to some of the mosquito causes, but fortunately not much.

From some of our reading this is the area that we may see bears. Up to this point we have not seen any signs, but today we have found some bear scat as well as several tracks,

Bears are here, just not in great numbers!

The signs are not fresh, but still it raises our alertness.

On one section as we look down to the river bottom, we see the trails made by the caribou.

The terrain today was quite the variety. We had easy walking to difficult. The difficult included tussocks that are raised tufts of grass surrounded by low lying vegetation. Your feet are always put into strained positions. We also walked thru marshy areas where one tried to keep their feet dry, by stepping on the highest grasses. The easiest walking and most scenic was walking along the rim. One section was walking on flat rocks right next to the rim, always making sure you had good footing. Some of the crevices in the rocks were covered with vegetation, making us proceed cautiously.

We feel really fortunate to have a blue bird day to experience the views.

Jim has developed some blisters and his feet are painful. We have several discussions of where our destination should be tonight. We stop at a delightful waterfall where we soak our feet before crossing below the falls.

We have decided that we will hike to a lake about 2 miles from the falls. However, upon arriving to the lake we are disappointed by the looks of the water and no good camping. Relooking at the map, it seems to make sense to just walk to an area near the falls. Everyone but Brian is feeling pretty tired. As we approach our new location, we hear the roaring of the falls. Brian decides to walk around a point to get a good view of the falls. I go in the other direction and just see the top of the falls. Tomorrow will be a good time to check out the falls.

Miles hiked 12.7

July 21

Last night was so hot that I used my bandana as a sheet. It was still too much. The arctic sun is intense! We have never been this far North and it has taken some time getting used to 24 hours of extreme day light. We have a little twilight between 2 and 3. I am not sure what I was thinking when I packed a flashlight. By 5 I have had enough of being in bed and after flicking the mosquitoes away from the net, I get up and make Don his coffee. We eat some cold cereal and then head over to see La Ronciere Falls. There is no movement in Jim and Brian’s tent. We will catch up with them later. Our morning’s plan was to enjoy the falls. As we round a corner, the falls come into view. After hearing the roar of the falls all last night it is great to get a visual of them. They are impressive as they plunge 68 feet to the rocks below. It reminds us a little of Niagara Falls except there is no commercialization here! (Just the four of us). Yesterday we got to experience a mini Grand Canyon and now it is the miniature Niagara Falls.

This water will be reaching the Arctic Ocean soon!

The Little Hornaday and the Hornaday are the main rivers that feed the Falls. We are so fortunate that we had a good weather day to view the Falls. After Jim and Brian take a turn of absorbing the power of the Falls, we pack up and begin our return trip to the cabin. Instead of hugging the rim of the river like we did getting here, we decided to take more of a cross country route.We can eliminate some of the elevation loss and gain by hiking away from the edge of the river.

Our animal sightings today included numerous swans on there lakes, a lone caribou and perhaps a snowy Owl.

We passed by a lake that had a muddy bottom. As the permafrost melts there may be more of these.

A small snow patch was a short respite from the heat of the day.

Caribou after use these patches to get relief from Insects. There was remnants of caribou hair on the snow,

We arrived to a campsite around 5 that had water nearby and a couple of level spots for our tents. We are becoming more selective on what composes level and lump free enough. Our sleeping pads can only do so much. The cold water stream close to our tent was a great spot to bathe and relax.

After feeling refreshed, we all had our meal and feeling that it was too early to retreat to our tent, we set up a cribbage game underneath the tarp. The thermacell did its thing and the mosquitoes left us in peace. Jim and Don were victorious in both games.

Our light weight tarp isn't as roomy as the Mantis, but it functions well for the four of us.

No wind yet so the mosquitoes enjoy hanging out on our net, on the outside of our mosquito netting.

By the time we went to bed, the clouds were building and by 2 in the morning a violent storm with hard rain and strong wind moved thru the area. So far this trip most of the hard rains have come at night.

Miles hiked 8.7

July 22 hiking across the barrens, Don spots a lemming and we see a lemming hay pile, arrive to the cabin tired, very windy evening

After the night of wind and rain, we awake to only the sound of mosquitoes pelting the tent. They have some force considering how fragile they look. Don counted over 100 mosquitoes on his side of the tent. We have a leisurely start to the day as we take refuge under the tarp to get away from the mosquitoes. Time to pack up and head out, if the terrain lends to easier hiking we may try to get back to the cabin tonight. The first 5 miles are relatively easy. We pick up some game trails which assist in making our destination tonight.

We pass by numerous lakes on he way to the cabin

If we are lucky the ground can be dry and relatively smooth

Often though we have to weave our way thru marshy ground finding the best path. Walking in some places may be analogous to being drunk and staggering as we try to find good footing. We quickly can determine what color of the tundra means good walking and what means marshy. Tussocks also have their own coloration and we try to avoid that terrain as well.

Brian points out a trail on the ground.

It is the trail of a lemming. Don and Brian spot a lemming but it doesn't stop long enough to get a photo.

Later we check out the home of a lemming with grass neatly laid in front of it. It is getting ready for winter.

With not much wind the mosquitoes are joining us for our walk. When we stop to take a break we pull out our head nets.

I have also added my hiking umbrella, one for the suns rays and also it helps with keeping away some of the mosquitoes.

We head up towards a pass and at the top we see a large lake that drains into the lake that the cabin in located on. We are going to make it back tonight.

There are numerous game trails around the edge of the lake, but unlike us, the animals that made them don't mind wading in the water, when the shore gets rocky. We weave up and down a bit, but are super glad for the access to the cold water, We use our bandanas and hats to cool us off. When we get to the end of the lake, the guys decide to take a break. I decide that breaking only increases the amount of time that it is going to get to the cabin. So while they sit down, I continue on raising the level of bear alertness. I am first to the cabin and within 20 minutes they have also joined me. The surrounding sky tells us of potential weather moving in. Don decides to try setting up the tent on the tent platform.

Flat places around the cabin were pretty slim so we figured a way to stake our our tent using rocks

The weather is deteriorating so we put our gear into the tent and quickly head down to the lake to take a bath and remove all the sweat that our bodies created today. Don impresses me when he actually dives under the water. We use the cabin to begin the process of reorganizing our gear. The cabin has a two burner Coleman stove which we use to cook our dinner. We have no complaints with having 4 walls around us.

Jim and Brian enjoy having a drink and sitting in comfortable chairs. Great way to end our hike

By 8:00 we are fading fast and head to the tent. The tent flaps in the wind and sort of lulls us to sleep. It is a good thing we are tired. By midnight though, the wind velocity has increased and the need to tighten the lines on our tent is necessary. It is nice to know that we are not moving tomorrow. We plan to contact Plummers lodge tomorrow to see if they have decided when is our pick up time. When we left 3 weeks ago we were told to be ready to be picked up on the 24th. Since it only took us 4 days to do the hike, we may be spending an extra day or two here.

Miles hiked 13.12